Faith and Charity in St Kilda, 1697

29 June 2009 – 1:18 pm

The Village, St Kilda

From Martin Martin’s 1697 account of a voyage to St Kilda. (Photo by Scotproof)

The inhabitants are Christians, much of the primitive temper, neither inclined to enthusiasm nor to popery. They swear not the common oaths that prevail in the world; when they refuse or deny to give what is asked of them, they do it with a strong asseveration,which they express emphatically enough in their language to this purpose, You are no more to have it, than that if God had forbid it; and thus they express the highest degree of passion. They do not so much as name the devil once in their lifetimes.

They leave off working after twelve of the clock on Saturday, as being an ancient custom delivered down to them from their ancestors, and go no more to it till Monday morning. They believe in God the Father, the Son, and Holy Ghost; and a state of future happiness and misery, and that all events, whether good or bad, are determined by God. They use a set form of prayer at the poising of their sails: they lie down, rise, and begin their labours in the name of God. They have a notion, that spirits are embodied; these they fancy to be locally in rocks, hills, and where-ever they list in an instant.

There are three chappels in this isle, each of them with one end towards the east, the other towards the west; the altar always placed at the east end; the first of these is called Christ Chappel, near the village; it is covered and thatched after the same manner with their houses; there is a brazen crucifix lies upon the altar, not exceeding a foot in length, the body is compleatly done, distended, and having a crown on, all in the crucified posture; they have it in great reverence, though they pay no kind of adoration or worship to it, nor do they either handle or see it, except upon the occasions of marriage, and swearing decisive oaths, which puts an end to all strife, and both these ceremonies are publickly performed. The church-yard is about an hundred paces in circumference, and is fenced in with a little stone wall, within which they bury their dead; they take care to keep the church-yard perfectly clean, void of any kind of nastiness, and their cattel have no access to it. The inhabitants, young and old, come to the church-yard every Sunday morning, the Chappel not being capacious enough to receive them; here they devoutly say the Lord’s prayer, Creed, and Ten Commandments.

They observe the festivals of Christmas, Easter, Good-Friday, St. Columba’s Day, and that of All Saints; upon this they have an anniversary cavalcade, the number of their horses not exceeding eighteen; these they mount by turns, having neither saddle nor bridle of any kind, except a rope, which manages the horse only on one side; they ride from the shoar to the house, and then after each man has performed his tour, the show is at an end. They are very charitable to their poor, of whom there are not at present above three, and these carefully provided for, by this little commonwealth, each particular family contributing according to their ability for their necessities; their condition is enquired into weekly, or monthly, as their occasions serve; but more especially at the time of their festivals, they slay some sheep on purpose to be distributed among the poor, with bread proportionable; they are charitable to strangers in distress, this they had opportunity to express to a company of French and Spaniards who lost their ship at Rokol in the year 1686, and came in, in a pinnace to St. Kilda, where they were plentifully supplied with barly-bread, butter, cheese, solan geese, eggs, etc…

The second of these chappels bears the name of St. Columba, the third of St. Brianan; both built after the manner of Christ’s Chappel; having churchyards belonging to them, and they are a quarter of a mile distance betwixt each chappel. Their marriages are celebrated after the following manner; when any two of them have agreed to take one another for man and wife, the officer who presides over them, summons all the inhabitants of both sexes to Christ’s Chappel, where being assembled, he enquires publickly if there be any lawful impediment why these parties should not be joined in the bond of matrimony? And if there be no objection to the contrary, he then enquires of the parties if they are resolved to live together in weal and woe, etc. After their assent, he declares them married persons, and then desires them to ratify this their solemn promise in the presence of God and the people, in order to which the crucifix is tender’d to them, and both put their right hands upon it, as the ceremony by which they swear fidelity one to another during their lifetime.

Mr. Campbel, the minister, married in this manner fifteen pair of the inhabitants on the seventeenth of June, who immediately after marriage, join’d in a country dance, having only a bagpipe for their musics, which pleased them exceedingly.

They baptize in the following manner; the parent calls in the officer, or any of his neighbours to baptize his child, and another to be sponsor; he that performs the minister’s part being told what the child’s name is to be, says, A .B. I baptize thee to your father and your mother, in the Name of the Father, Son, and Holy Ghost; then the sponsor takes the child in his arms, as both his wife as godmother, and ever after this there is a friendship between the parent and the sponsor, which is esteemed so sacred and inviolable, that no accident, how cross so-ever, is able to set them at variance; and it reconciles such as have been at enmity formerly…

The inhabitants of St. Kilda, are much happier than the generality of mankind, as being almost the only people in the world who feel the sweetness of true liberty: what the condition of the people in the Golden Age is feign’d by the poets to be, that theirs really is, I mean, in innocency and simplicity, purity, mutual love and cordial friendship, free from solicitous cares, and anxious covetousness; from envy, deceit, and dissimulation; from ambition and pride, and the consequences that attend them. They are altogether ignorant of the vices of foreigners, and governed by the dictates of reason and Christianity, as it was first delivered to them by those heroick souls whose zeal moved them to undergo danger and trouble to plant religion here in one of the remotest corners of the world

Taigh a’Chladaich, Ungeshader

29 June 2009 – 8:00 am

Some of the Smiths who lived at 2 Ungeshader, and their house, Taigh a’Chladaich, right on the shore there.  In the first photo are Annie Smith (Anna Chladaich), Mary Smith (Mairi Choinnich), Effie Smith (Eiric Choinnich), Annie Smith (Banntrach Choinnich Oig), and Kenny Dan Smith.

Smiths, 2 Ungeshader

Taigh a Chladaich

Scramble for Rural Houses (1949)

28 June 2009 – 8:00 am

“The wanderlust of the Uigeach”, from the Stornoway Gazette, 30 December 1949.

Swedish timber houses allocated to West Uig are not to be built there. Owing to the depopulation of the district there is very little chance of finding tenants. When this news was given to the Lewis District Council by the chairman, Councillor John Maciver, there was a scramble by the other districts in the island to claim the houses. The houses had originally been allocated to West Uig in the hope that they would help to arrest depopulation, but it was not likely that they would ever find tenants for twenty houses in Uig, he said.

Rather than lose the twenty houses, he thought they should try to get them for some other district in rural Lewis. He recognised the congestion around Stornoway, with people coming in to find work in the mills, but he wanted ten of the houses for Shawbost, and he understood Councillor Donald Macleod wanted ten for Point. For the last four houses at Springfield, there were over 100 applications, but only nine of these had come from outside the burgh, although the houses were intended for Point, Back and the central ward of Stornoway.

“Where do you want these houses to go?” he asked.

“I think Councillor Duncan Maciver and I have the first say in that,” said Councillor Smith, Uig. “I think they should be erected near Stornoway, and priority should be given to the people of Uig when they’re finished, as the people of Uig had been chased out of Uig by the County Council and partly by the Lewis District Council. Today we haven’t got the young men and young women left there to occupy them. If they get married they have to go and live on the mainland.”

Councillor Smith went on to say the conditions under which they had to live were a disgrace to humanity, and he made a vigorous attack on the authorities for the neglect of the road.

“It is not my fault. I did my best to get you twenty houses in Uig. It was hoped it would arrest the depopulation, but there’s always a wanderlust in the Uigeach,” said the chairman. Read the rest of this entry »

Uig Gala Day is Saturday 4 July

27 June 2009 – 8:00 am

Gala Day is not to be missed. Here’s (some of) what’s on:

Guess the Weight of the Fruit Cake, Guess the Doll’s Birthday, Guess the Number of Sweets, Guess the Weight of the Salmon, Gladiator Duel, Bouncy Castles, Boat Rides, Luxury Boat Ride, Comann Eachdraidh Stall, Football Game, Tombola, Sheep Race, Kiddies Play Area, Whisky Bottle Toss, Archery, Noddy Train, Puppet Show, Children’s Highland Games, Tug of War, Face Painting, Hill Run, Coconut Shy, Stocks, Badge Making, 49 Club Lotto, Throw the Welly, Hoopla, Smoothie Cycle, Tea Tent, Ice Cream, Burger Stall, BBQ Clams, Smoked Mussels, BBQ Fish, Candy Floss, Crepes, Fire Engine, Highland Dancing, a Piper and the Famous Uig Waterslide; plus a lot of chit-chat on the machair and playing around on the beach.

Saturday 4 July at the east end of Reef Beach; gates open at 1pm. Admission is £2 for adults and £1 for children. Volunteers still needed for various jobs and baking and tombola prizes are always welcome; drop us a line and we’ll put you in touch.

Photos from Kneep

26 June 2009 – 8:00 am

Thanks to Chrissie for this lovely collection of photos of the Macdonalds at 8 Kneep and their neighbours.

They may be easier to view on the Gallery page.

June

25 June 2009 – 8:00 am

Uig Lodge from Timsgarry

Milling

25 June 2009 – 12:43 am

From Lewsiana, by W Anderson Smith (1874, 1896).

During the autumn and winter the grain is prepared at leisure as potatoes are first consumed, or nearly so, before the meal is much run upon. When in urgent need of meal, the grain is sometimes dried in an iron pot on the fire, and then taken to the quern or hand mill, where, however, a great quantity is necessarily lost, from the difficulty of collecting it as it issues from between the stones. This meal is called “gratanach,” is much liked by some people who could not well digest the common meal, and is the ancient way of preparing it. In old times, also, the barley heads were taken, and the grain switched out of them, as is done occasionally in some parts even now, and kiln-dried in the husks.

To-day, however, the most usual way is by the flail, when the grain is winnowed in the breeze that is always ready for it, and then taken to the kiln. Every six or eight crofters join together and build one of these little huts for their mutual benefit. A hole is dug in the centre, with a trench leading to it. This is covered over so as to support a quantity of straw, on which the grain is laid. The heat from a peat fire is led under the straw along the trench, and the grain thus dried. After this the grain is taken to one of the little mills, also erected by the joint efforts of a portion of the crofters.

Follow one of the narrow mill-lades from some stream, and you arrive at a little Esquimaux-looking hut. Crawl into this, and you find two good granite stones; suspended over the centre is a stout bag of woven rushes; through one corner of this the grain trickles into a wooden shoe. As the stone revolves, a projecting stick strikes this shoe and tilts the contents into the hole in the stone, the shoe being refilled by the next revolution. The grain is deposited in a hole in the stonework on which the mill-stones rest, the hut itself being in most cases built of turf. The stones are cut with great labour and patience out of the granite rock by the village mason or blacksmith; and a granite cliff near Dalbeg, on the road from Carloway to Barvas, is often occupied at the base by an industrious millstone hewer.

[A half-hewn millstone can be seen, still attached to its source, at Gannstotl near Geshader; pictured here.]

Millstone

Here and there modern mills have been erected by the proprietor, and let to tenants; all the crofters within a certain district arc obliged to send their grain thither, or pay the miller the same as if they did. This is rather a high-handed mode of introducing civilisation. For instance, the people of Uig have to forward their grain to Callanish Mill, either going upwards of twenty miles by road or crossing Loch Roag by boat, when, on arrival, the mill may be full of work, or the weather too stormy to return. Such eventualities often occur.

In this way several days are always, and many days often, spent away from home, while the families arc awaiting the meal they might have had ground at their doors. A great many people prefer paying the penalty and grinding at their own little mills, and all complain of the great tax thus imposed on them to enable the worthy miller to pay his rent. The meal once ground, they have provided themselves with sieves through which to take off the rough. These, are made of sheepskins, stretched over strong wooden hoops until they are tight as a drum; the perforations are made with a small awl made of a straightened cod-hook with the barb chipped off: this is stuck in a handle of tangle stem, which enables the hand to grasp it readily when heated in the fire. These simple and useful little instruments are in universal use in the Lews for this and similar purposes.

Valtos School, 1948

22 June 2009 – 11:02 pm

Valtos School 1948

Teacher: Sophie Macsween (Macleod). Thanks to Mary Peggy Mackay for putting the names to the faces.

Back 1. John Angus Mackay 7 Reef
2. Dan Buchanan 7 Valtos
3. DA Morrison 13 Reef
4. Calum Ian Buchanan 8 Valtos
5. Archie Macdonald, FP Manse

Middle 6. John Andrew Buchanan 7 Valtos
7. Donald C Morrison 32 Valtos
8. Norman Mackay 31 Valtos & Miavaig
9. Donald Angus Mackay 30 Valtos & Crowlista
10. Donald N Morrison (Tammy) 32 Valtos
11. John Smith 30b Valtos

Front 12. Peggy Morrison 3 Valtos
13. Murdina Buchanan 7 Valtos
14. Gladys Goodge Miavaig
15. Annie Matheson 10 Reef
16. Mary Ann Matheson 10 Reef
17. Isa Smith 30b Valtos
18. Mary Morrison 3 Valtos
19. Joan Mackay 31 Valtos & Miavaig

Gala Day Traditional Duff-Making Contest (and Volunteers Needed)

22 June 2009 – 1:13 pm

Gala Day, 4th July from 1pm on Reef Machair, is fast approaching and new this year is a duff-making competition - that is, traditional clootie dumplings as served in kitchens around Uig.

All entries are to be traditionally made (ie without a microwave) and delivered to the machair by 1pm on Saturday 4th.  The prize is £50 and the lucky judges have yet to be appointed.

Volunteers to man stalls would be welcome, as would contributions of baking for the tea-tent and prizes for the tombola.  Volunteers can see Tina, Peter or Norrie, baking goes to Todag and tombola prizes to Janet Macleod, or leave a message here and we’ll put you in touch.

The Comann Eachdraidh will have a stall with Viking-related games and some genealogy and photos.  See you there.  The weather WILL be good - see last year’s pictures for proof of that.

A Haystack in Kneep

12 June 2009 – 11:00 am

A Kneep Haystack

Peigi Eiric Smith, Chirsty Ann Macarthur, Mary and Sandy Smith, in Kneep.

The Long Road to Stornoway (1893)

12 June 2009 – 10:31 am

To mark the expectation that our new Enaclete bypass will opening soon (surely), here’s a further extract from the unpublished memoirs of Rev Col AJ Mackenzie, who was born at Kinresort in 1887, son of the gamekeeper Roderick Mackenzie.  The family moved in to the gamekeeper’s house at Uig Lodge in 1891, and a few years later the young Alex John made his first journey to Stornoway, accompanying his parents; his mother was needing the town doctor.

In those days there was only one way of getting to Stornoway. That was by John Gillies’s mail gig which went three times a week as far as Garynahine to collect all the mails for Uig, and from Garynahine to take the returning mail cart to Stornoway. Nowadays no one has the least conception of how slow and tedious and tiring that method of travelling was.

Much of the time had to be spent walking up long hills so as to lighten the burden on the horse. Long before the end of the journey one felt tired out and bruised by the constant jolting on the rough road. It was certainly not the way for invalids to travel. We were fortunate in that we had a horse and dog cart at our disposal at that time, and so could accomplish the journey in easy relays.

One day we set off, It was a memorable day for me: for I was going to see myself something about which I had always been wondering. I was going down the glen to see what was at the other side of the hills. The first stage took us as far as the Calder’s cottage at Kinlochroag. There we passed the night in comfort, the next day we made Garynahine Inn, where we were welcomed and made extraordinarily comfortable by Mrs Macintosh as she was then called. The third day we set off on the last lap of our journey.

So far my mother had borne up well. As for myself everything was a never ending revelation; but the greatest of all was still ahead of us.

About these days what was known as the New Carloway road was in the last stage of completion. We heard rumours that it had already been opened, but there was nothing definite about it. This road besides being beautifully smooth shortened the journey to Stornoway by a mile or two. When we came to the point where it joined the old Uig road we could see clearly two or three wheel tracks and deciding that it was open to traffic my father drove for Stornoway.  As we drew nearer to the town, I smelt coal smoke for the first time in my life.

It never entered my mind that there could be any place in the world so wonderful as Stornoway.  I had often listened to people speaking about it, but the reality exceeded anything I dreamed of: the amazing maze of streets, the pavements, the gorgeous display of things in the shop windows, the seemingly ceaseless traffic of vehicles in the streets, the crowds of men, women and children on the pavements, the ships and fishing boats in the harbour, and above all the great castle looking down on the town. It all seemed too much to take in at once.  My admiration for my father increased every minute seeing how he could make his way through it all with no apparent difficulty. I felt myself perfectly safe in his hands. He drove us through the length of town until we came to the house [in Battery Park] of his old friend James Young, where he deposited my mother and myself, while he himself returned to town to stable the horse.

During the next two days I spend most of my time out of doors, just standing still and watching with amazement the ceaseless traffic of horses and carts and fishing nets passing to and fro between the town and Sandwick Village. (Some pictures of Stornoway c1905.)

In the meantime my mother was being regularly attended by Dr Mackenzie. One day we three, taking Mrs Young, completed our journey by driving down to the Mill House at Garrabost. Then leaving my mother, my father and I returned to town intending to begin our return journey to Uig next day. We put up for the night in the quaint old Crown Inn, then occupied by Roderick Mackenzie, a friend of my father.

After supper my father took me down to the pier.  What a jamb of people was there, boys dashing recklessly in and out of the crowd, while the mail boat was being prepared for sailing. The shouting of dockers and the clanking of winches was rather terrifying, and I clung to my father’s hand. At last all was ready, the ropes were thrown off, and the Clansman (or was it the Claymore?) moved out into the harbour, and in a few minutes was steaming out by Arnish lighthouse. That was another historic moment for me, for I realised that I was actually standing at the exit to the great world beyond about which I was always dreaming.

Early next morning we set out on our return journey. I regarded myself as a great traveller, and had much to speak about when I got amongst the boys again. Perhaps they were a trifle envious of my good fortune; and perhaps I just a trifle lorded over them my superior knowledge of the great world beyond our sheltering hills.

Tattie & Herring Supper, Friday 26 June

9 June 2009 – 7:39 pm

The annual Uig Tattie & Herring Supper is coming up: sgadan gu leòr and a ceilidh to follow.

Friday 26 June
7.30pm, Uig Hall

Visitor of the Day

9 June 2009 – 7:25 pm

Viking

The museum is in full swing now and we’re pretty busy. If you’re in the vicinity, come and see us, Mondays to Saturdays, 12-5pm. Dressing up isn’t essential but is warmly encouraged. This Viking and his mate came on motorbikes all the way from that other Viking stronghold, Cumbria. (The hardware is ours.)

Ungeshader, Geshader, Carishader, Enaclete, Lochcroistean

5 June 2009 – 8:40 pm

New pictures for our collection; thanks to Mary Macleod, Lochcroistean.

Banais Una

4 June 2009 – 10:58 pm

Verses written by Norman “Conter” Macleod, am Bard Bochd and for many years headmaster at Lochcroistean, on the occasion of the marriage of Agnes Smith, Lochcroistean, to Kenny Maclennan, 15 Kneep.  It was sung at the wedding by Kenny Dan Smith, 2 Ungeshader; and the reading here is by Finlay Maciver Carishader (click the arrow).

O, nach sinne fhuair an t-urram
Bhon a’ chruinneig uasal bhòidheach,
Thog ar cridhe le a cuireadh
Bhith ‘na cuideachd aig a pòsadh.

Sàr nam beannachd air a’ mhaighdinn
Thog ar n-inntinn suas gu àirde,
Leis an smuain bha dhuinn cho aoibhneach
Gu bheil cuimhn’ oirnn anns na Bàghan.

Mi bhi thall an cois do phòsadh
‘S mi gu’n òladh deoch do shlàinte,
Measg an t-sugraidh is an t-sòlais
Le na seòid bha riamh rium càirdeil.

‘S mor an danns bhios air do bhanais
Nuair a chruinnicheas cruinn na càirdean;
Co a chas nach tugadh breab aist’
Ris a’ cheòl tighinn bhon a “bhand” so.

‘M Brace le peile cluiche druma;
Piob nan dos air gualainn Phadruig;
Lyon le cir-mhin is paipeir;
‘S feadag sgillig air ‘An Màsach.

Glagan naoidhein aig Iain Dhomhnuill;
‘N Giblean le trumb ùr ‘na chàireas
Seonaidh anns a’chùil le Bugle;
‘S port air Banjo bhon an Tàileach.

Fionnlagh Alasdair le fidheall;
Coinneach Ruadh toirt ceòl a spàinean;
Domhnull ‘An Ghillies le it-fhitheach;
‘S an Crown a’ cumail “time” le làmhan.

‘S mise thilgeadh dhiom gach mulad,
Guidhe sòlas dhuibh is slàinte,
Gràdh is àgh bhith gnath ‘nar cuideachd
‘S lionmhorachd gun chrioch ’san àl dhuibh.